Diffraction Meaning in Surfing

Diffraction refers to the way waves bend around obstacles in the ocean sea. This occurs when a swell hits a point of land or a jetty. The energy curves into the sheltered area behind the object for the surfer. Diffraction can turn a straight swell into a peeling wave along a bay. This process is responsible for creating many of the best surf spots worldwide. A surfer watches waves diffract around a rocky headland at a point break. The height of the wave often decreases as the energy spreads out more. One athlete enjoys a clean ride created by the diffraction of a swell. Understanding how waves bend helps surfers find hidden gems along the rugged coastline.