Period Meaning in Surfing

Period measures the time in seconds between two consecutive wave crests. This number indicates the strength and depth of the moving ocean energy. A high period means the waves have traveled a very long distance. These waves usually translate into larger and more powerful surf at beaches. A low period suggests that local winds created the waves nearby. Surfers check the period to predict the quality of the coming session. A swell with a fourteen second period hits the outer reef. Long period waves often arrive in very clean and organized sets. One person counts the seconds between waves to judge the swell. Knowing the period helps a surfer choose the right board for the day.