Refraction Meaning in Surfing

Refraction describes the way waves bend as they enter shallow water area. This occurs when one part of the wave slows down while the rest moves. Refraction allows waves to wrap around points and into sheltered coastal bays. This process is responsible for creating long and perfectly peeling surf lines. The shape of the seafloor dictates how the wave will refract and break. A surfer enjoys a wave that refracts perfectly along a curved rocky point. This bending of energy focuses the swell into a defined and rideable peak. One athlete watches the swell refract as it hits a shallow volcanic reef. Refraction is a key scientific principle behind the quality of every surf spot.